An adventure in Panama begins…

April 15, 2013 by xplorearth | 1 Comment

Apologies for the delay in posting.  I’ve been touring Panama, including the Darien jungle, and Internet connection has been difficult, and at times, non-existent.  The next posts will journal my travels…

 

Destination: Darien Gap

Mission: To cross the Darien from Puerto Quimba to Playa Muerto in order to locate lost petroglyphs and mark a new route through the jungle

End of the road at Puerto Quimba

Our expedition members ventured from the United States and the United Kingdom to Panama City, to meet our Panamanian guides for trekking the Darien jungle.  I was along to photograph the journey and findings. 

Carrying our Gear to the Dock at Puerto Quimba

We departed the city by private bus, travelling the Pan-American Highway, headed east.  Before the road ended, we turned off to Puerto Quimba where a boat was waiting to carry us up river into the heart of Darien.

Our boat (on the right) waiting to take us up stream into Darien

SENAFRONT (Servicio Nacional de Fronteras De Panamá), Panama’s border patrol, was regularly posted along the highway, and greeted us on the dock at Puerto Quimba.  We were prepared with extra copies of our passports and a letter of intent for our journey.  Though they hindered our progress at times, they did not prevent us from reaching our goals.

Senafront on the dock at Puerto Quimba

Fellow Darien Explorers, eager at the outset of our journey

The Darien Expedition continues up river to Tucuti….

Squid Drying Under the Sun

January 15, 2013 by xplorearth | 1 Comment

Some years ago I packed my bags, boarded a plane with a visa to work in South Korea for a year, and took a leap of faith.  I didn’t speak the language.  I didn’t know anyone in the town where I was headed.  I’d eaten Korean food in Los Angeles on numerous occasions and liked it.  But, really I had no idea what to expect entering a culture so different from my own, and no idea how that journey would change me and change my life.

I had travelled to foreign countries before my time in Korea, but there had been other Americans around, and people also seemed to speak English whenever I needed assistance or was lost.  Korea was different, and unexpectedly so, as I was told I would be living and working with other foreign teachers.  This wasn’t the case.  I flew into Seoul, and caught another smaller plane to Masan.  I arrived with three other foreigners – one Canadian and two Americans.  As we were standing outside the school, a car drove up and I was instructed to get in.  I really didn’t want to, especially as the other three weren’t.  I was told that I would be taken to a branch of the school in another city, and other teachers were already onsite.  So, I got in the car.

I have to mention it was now around midnight so all the city lights were on and blazing.  As we drove, the lights slowly, but entirely disappeared.  Then there was just darkness, until some lights began to appear again, but not many.  The car stopped outside a three story office building on a dirt road. I couldn’t see much in the darkness except all the signs written of course in Korean, and some chickens crossing the road.  Where was I?

The driver didn’t speak English but pulled my bags out of the trunk so I assumed this was my stop.  He rang a door bell, and a man, woman and young boy appeared in the doorway.  They were all smiles and made me feel at ease… or at least a little at ease.  The man picked up my case and said “follow me” in English… and I felt even more at ease.  I bowed goodnight to his wife and child, after watching them treat me with the same courtesy.  And, up the stairs we went.

My apartment was on the top floor.  The man turned on the lights and placed my suitcase on the floor in the first bedroom, and said “your room, and goodnight.”  We bowed to each other and he left.  I was exhausted as the journey had taken about 24 hours between the two plane rides and the two plus hour car ride.  So, I made the bed and went to sleep.

In the morning I woke to roosters crowing and street noise below.  I pushed open the rice paper shutters and looked out on a town that seemed frozen in time.  The roofs were tiled and curved, the corners pointing upwards.  The town looked small as fields and rice patties could be seen all around behind the main road. All sorts of things were drying on the roofs in the sun – many of which I could not identify, but some looked like squid.  Maybe I was near the coast?Carts were being pulled in the road below by goats.  Chickens and pigs were herded past, and people with those pointy straw hats, balancing loads hanging from a pole across their shoulders walked every which way.  Kids were running with streamers and laughing.  Scooters honked trying to maneuver through the chaos.  Everything looked so foreign, which may sound funny as I was in a foreign country, but this was like being on a movie set… where was I?!  And, there were no other foreign teachers, in fact at that moment I was the only teacher at a school that had no supplies, no lesson plans, nothing to speak of that actually made it a school.  Did I mention I had never been a teacher before, nor had I studied how?  And, my bedroom was part of the school’s make-shift office so not much privacy.  I proceeded to call home, and told my mom I may have made a mistake, and that I should have listened to everyone who tried to talk me out of venturing to Korea.

Yet I stuck it out, and am pleased I did as the story of my life in Korea is quite a tale!  P.S. I used my iPhone to make these images of the actual photos since it was before the digitized world.

XplorMor in Your Own Backyard: Start by Drawing a Circle

December 30, 2012 by xplorearth | 2 Comments

To continue the discussion of travelling around your own backyard, I‘ve gathered some steps that me be helpful in getting you out there.  It seems to me that the best way to start exploring in your local area is by deciding on a distance you are willing to travel (20 miles, 80 miles, etc).  Then, draw a circle out from your own backyard using a protractor and map, or go online to a website like Free Map Tools (see instructions at end of blog) and let them plot it for you.  This will show a more limited range of places to travel, and perhaps help to narrow the decision and increase the chance of making it happen.  Hopefully you will also realize how much is actually around you.

The next step is to study the area within the boundary created, and look for points of interest, such as cultural or historical sights, interesting restaurants, hiking and biking trails, nature preserves and mountains, bodies of water like lakes, rivers or the ocean, and so on.  Look for items that interest you personally.  Write down, or type into your smart phone, computer, iPhone, etc, everything that catches your eye or your interest even if it seems like a silly idea.  Then add anything that may have already been on your “must do” list.  As you are searching on the internet, gather the pertinent information at the same time: websites/addresses/phones, opening times, admission fees (note any discounts and coupons), events, directions (though MapQuest may assist at any time).  This is the age of technology – make it work for you – bookmark ideas, make calendar events in Outlook, and so forth.

Another option is to contact your local tourism office.  The Tourism Offices Worldwide Directory is “a guide to official tourist information sources: government tourism offices, convention and visitors bureaus, chambers of commerce, and similar organizations that provide free, accurate, and unbiased travel information to the public.”  I actually hadn’t done this myself until writing the Blog, so I made contact with my local office through the TOWD website, and will stop by to pick up brochures on local activities, businesses and happenings.  They also said there are coupons for discounts off activities from the theater to dining; another benefit of contacting them!  If you cannot take the time to visit in person, the Tourism Offices are usually able to mail information… but I would rather not wait.  And, if you did draw a map and write down places of interest, then I would take this with you to the Tourism Office or have it handy when you call so that you may ask specific questions about those places.

Once you have your points of interest list, rank their order to suit your present circumstance, such as if you only have an hour, a day or a long weekend.  Again, this depends on the distance chosen for your circle. Perhaps you rank them by time it will take to complete, such as an hour, ½ a day or a weekend.  The choices may also be based on the time of year; the lake you were hoping to kayak may now be a skating rink instead.  Your current funds could be low as you are shopping for Christmas gifts so something like a walk on the beach or a hike in the mountains (unless there is a park fee) that doesn’t cost any money may be your best bet to spend your extra two hours today.

 And, don’t feel you have to rush through the list.  This is where you live, and unless you plan to move any time soon, this list could be good for 6 months, a year, two years, etc.  However, if you do wait some time then check to make sure the information is accurate before making the hour drive to find out the horse ranch closed.  Now you are inspired and prepared… get out there, and after, share your finds and adventures with friends and post on the XplorMor Facebook page for the community to experience the fun too. Happy, safe travels.

Instructions for using Free Map tools:

Click on www.freemaptools.com and on the left sidebar, select “Radius Around Point Map”.  Then follow these instructions:

  1. Put in the zip code closest to the area you’d like to zero in on (box on bottom left side of map) and then zoom in to get to the right address on the street, then zoom out enough to be able to see the radius when it is drawn.
  2. Decide the radius distance.
  3. Click on map
  4. Decide on Line Thickness, Line Color, and Fill Color.
  5. Click on “Draw Radius”
  6. You may need to adjust the Zoom to move in closer or further away.
  7. Use your favorite screen capture tool to convert the image into a JPEG file

XplorMor in Your Own Backyard

December 2, 2012 by xplorearth | 1 Comment

As budgets are tight these days, travel is unfortunately crossed off the list for many.  However, travel doesn’t mean you have to find yourself sipping a cocktail on a white sand beach in Tahiti, rather your own hometown or region may offer a welcomed retreat or day-get-away .  My posts are about far off places, yet I am exploring these places while living in them.  In Alaska, I lived in Juneau for the good part of a year which allowed me to settle into the culture and truly experience all the surrounding areas have to offer, which is a lot.  Now in California it is no different: I have a home base and am exploring the area’s nearby attractions and to some degree further out as my budget allows.

The Ojai Valley, taken with my iPhone

 This idea goes along with seeing the beauty and interest in our surroundings.  When I arrived in California from Alaska, I was overwhelmed by its populous – people and buildings and traffic – oh my!  I’ve travelled all over the world for the last 24 years, and for some reason never had such a culture shock except when I arrived in a non-English speaking country for the first time and had to learn to communicate.  Other than that experience, this move from AK to CA was the most astounding swop.

Carpinteria Bluffs Beach

Juneau and its out-lying areas live up to the nickname: “The Last Great Frontier.”  The mountains, sea, forests, rivers, wildlife and glaciers are feasts for the senses in every way.  I felt as though every step walked was a new photo to be shot, definitely a candy shop for nature lovers and photographers.  I truly couldn’t get enough, and ventured out daily to see what new sites would be offered – amazing how the weather and seasons change a landscape – every day truly was a “new” day.

So, arriving in Southern California was a challenge to the senses that had opened to the beauty of Alaska.  At first, I thought that I couldn’t stay here for any long period of time and immediately began plotting my next adventure.  Yet as the days have gone by, and I came to terms with my shoe-string budget that is keeping me tied for a bit longer, I realize there’s beauty here too.  Of course there is – there’s beauty everywhere!   I just needed to readjust my eyes, and instead of looking at the low mountain ranges covered with homes and the muddy waters, to take in the stunning sunsets, beaches, chaparrals and wildlife that exist only in this area.  The more I recalibrate my senses, the more beauty and interest I continue to see, and the more places I am discovering that I would like to visit and hike.

A California Beach Day

I’m sharing this story with you in hopes that you too will get out and enjoy your own backyard, your own wonderful, interesting area of the world, and perhaps you will share photos and tales with us.  As I am not able to get far out there currently, I appreciate seeing the wonderful places of the world through your eyes, and allow myself to dream of the possibilities.

A California Sunset

Do to tremendous interest, I am working on a way for others to post and blog on this page.  If you are interested please Contact Us  through the website or via XplorMor on Facebook or Twitter.

On the Edge, Literally

November 14, 2012 by xplorearth | 2 Comments

Have you ever stood somewhere and wondered “how did I get here?” I mean literally, not metaphysically or spiritually.  I do on a much too regular basis: find myself saying, “Geez. How did you get yourself here?”  Well, this just happened again on the Lakes Trail in Sequoia National Park.  Let me first describe the trail…

Picture standing on a trail no more than two feet wide that has been created by blasting a granite face, then consider the wall on one side is fairly smooth with nothing to hold on to, and the other side leads to a 2000 foot drop into a desolate rocky valley below.  Add an unexpected layer of snow which has spent several days melting and compacting, and melting a little more and compacting a little more… forming a wonderfully slippery surface.  Now include further factors such as no ropes, walking stick or crampons, and there you will find yourself in the situation in which I stood only a week ago, saying “Geez…”

And, did I mention that I decided to do this by myself?  Yep, I had the brilliant idea of hiking the 12+ mile Lakes Trail by myself in the chilly, early morn.  This wasn’t one of my smartest moves.  Yet, if the Visitor Center staff had informed me with better knowledge and understanding of the trail, including the 2500 foot vertical climb within the first 3 miles, and that I would reach snow, perhaps I could have prepared myself or found a buddy to go with rather than do it alone and ill-equipped.  Of course, I lived to tell about it so no harm, no foul… but is that really the point?

Don’t get me wrong.  I’m not complaining about such a lucky opportunity to venture into pristine wilderness with granite mountains extending far into the sky, tall pines, crystal clear lakes, and of course snow (which for a SoCal resident, is always novelty); rather I’m sorry that due to the circumstances, and needing my wits and energies focused on the task at hand… stepping forward, one foot at a time rather slowly… I missed out on some wonderful photo opps.  I decided at one point when I slipped, and nearly fell, that it was to my benefit to put the camera away as to not fall again and perhaps further.

Now I am home, and survived, I am a tad remorseful at not having stopped to take a picture or two.  But then again, perhaps I may not have lived to post them.  Instead, I lived to tell the story and offer photos from other points along the trip.

I would definitely recommend the Lakes Trail to anyone who enjoys hiking long stretches. It has it all – the views, water, mountains, forest… need I say more?  I would however go with a buddy, and camp overnight at Pear Lake to break up the journey.

One point I also need to mention… on the way back there were big cat tracks on top of my shoe prints.  Makes me wonder…

For further trail details and insights visit The Lakes.

 

“Every Morsel of Your Entire Being Alive”

October 27, 2012 by xplorearth | Leave a comment

I recently heard a movie quote that made me think of this trek to Mendenhall Glacier.  It was two pirates speaking about drinking from the cup of life, and how the opportunity was turned down.  The first pirate said, “You could have lived for ever.”  And the response he received: “But better to not know which moment may be your last… every morsel of your entire being alive to the infinite mystery of it all.  I have no say in it… Savvy?”  I couldn’t agree more.  The not knowing pushes you toward living and getting out there; a trek to Mendenhall epitomizes this sentiment.

Mendenhall West Glacier Trail

After my solo experience in the ice cave on Mendenhall Lake and Glacier in the winter, I felt it best to make this trip with a professional and with the proper gear to better ensure my safety.  I couldn’t have been more correct!  Going with Above and Beyond Alaska proved well worth the fee as I was supplied with necessary equipment and a knowledgeable guide named Dawn, who not only provided insights on the terrain and its history but proved to be a great companion for the duration.

This is a quintessential Alaskan trail for viewing mountains, glaciers, lake vistas and waterfalls, but the trail is not for the faint of heart.  It consists of rocky terrain off the beaten path and is mainly accessible during temperate weather between April and September.  It is about 8 miles in length round trip, and is a moderate to difficult hike.  There are rope climbs on stone outcroppings, narrow switchbacks, stone staircases, and slippery paths through creeks that pass steep drop-offs.

Mendenhall West Glacier Trail

The trail begins with an easy walk on a well-maintained path through Tongass National Forest surrounding Mendenhall Lake – a beautiful, lush Alaskan rain forest.  About a mile in, the trail starts to climb offering exceptional lookout points with expansive views of Mendenhall Lake, Valley, Glacier and Visitor Center.  Then towards the second mile marker, the trail crosses a rocky area with a flowing stream that falls into a beautiful waterfall and crystal clear pool.  Here the survey tapes and cairn markers are very visible as the foliage has not yet regrown to obscure the barren rocky landscape.  There is one metal disc marker dated “1951” that stood out on the trek.  This is where the glacier reached in that year, a good mile from where it is now; it has been receding since the 1700s but the annual amount has increased in the past 50 years.

Mendenhall West Glacier Trail

Once at the glacier, it is important to be properly prepared with the right gear such as crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet and gloves in order to continue the trek on the ice.  With this equipment, it may be possible to climb onto the glacier however other factors like the climate also limit its accessibility.  The glacier and its ice caves change with the weather; if the temperature rises, the ice thaws and drips, wearing away at the glacier mass and its stability.  Additionally, it must be clear that any activities around the glacier may be extremely hazardous and should be taken at one’s own risk.  I would never advise to go into or too close to an ice cave, since they are very slippery, lead to the unknown, and may collapse without any warning.  I would also not suggest walking on the glacier or into its caves or crevasses unless you are with someone familiar with glacier trekking such as a professional guide.

And, on a rare, wonderful occasion Mendenhall Glacier may offer an opportunity to discover and access an ice cave – one of Mother Nature’s temples.  Let the blue guide you into the mystery, but stay aware of your surroundings as danger is ever apparent in this impermanent world.

Mendenhall West Glacier Trail

The smoothness of the ice is amazing.  I love to run my hands on the surface, even rest my cheek, feeling the curves, the cold and the sleek wonder.  It’s utterly breathtaking, and for me overwhelming – I actually tear from the giddy, overpowering excitement.  I sat on a rock in the middle of the stream, legs crossed, hands in my lap, eyes as wide as a child’s when seeing Santa.  I enjoyed listening to the water flow, gazing, mesmerized by the neon blue glow.  Pure AWE.  This is my sanctuary.

For additional information and photos visit Mendenhall West Glacier Trail.

 

 

 

Mother Nature’s Sculptures

October 2, 2012 by xplorearth | Leave a comment

I’m going to lead into this trek with a hefty warning, as the sign at the start of the trail reads: “Use at your own risk.”

Mendenhall Lake with a powdery white Winter blanket

This is relatively the case for any location, but out on the ice, near a calving glacier, it is especially true. I proceeded at my own risk, determining that for me the risk outweighed the reward; the reward being an incredible venture out to a natural wonder and into one of its blue ice caves. I will also say that for my next attempt, I will go with a guide from Above and Beyond Alaska so I have the proper equipment and knowledge to proceed more safely.

My trek to Mendenhall Glacier actually happened in March 2011. I’m letting you know the date as Mendenhall Lake, Glacier and caves will not be the same if you choose to hazard out this winter. With the changing seasons, the ice has melted and reformed and melted again… leaving a different scape to witness. Who knows… it may be even more spectacular this season… that’s the beauty of Mother Nature – ever-changing, unexpected and glorious.

Mother Nature's Sculpture

Mendenhall Lake freezes during the winter months, providing a seemingly more direct access to the glacier than the trails circumventing the lake and mountains. It is not as quick as it looks though; I expected a short jaunt out, but it took about two hours trudging through the snow, sometimes sinking a little as it was powdery. This distance will only increase as the glacier continues to recede, so the trails may be a better bet. Snow shoes (and water/snack) probably would have been a good call, but when we headed to the glacier we had no intention of walking out… it was an unexpected surprise that only offered itself upon arrival.

When we drove up to the Mendenhall Visitor Center area, the sky was a brilliant blue, and the ground sparkling white with a fresh layer of snow. It was a gorgeous day, and as we looked out across the lake, people could be seen in the distance walking in either direction, not many but enough for us to feel like we could also do it.

Caution: thinning ice is a danger that may be overlooked while filled with wonderment

I had never been so close to a glacier, its icebergs or its ice caves. I kept referring to the icebergs as Mother Nature’s sculptures to behold. It was quite incredible to see them frozen in place in the snowy crust of the lake as we had watched them break off and float in the lake only months earlier. And, now we were able to walk up and gaze into the spectrum of blues on display, and admire them in awe. The colors and hues didn’t seem real; they were as though a divine painter had come and spread his canvas out before us.

This iceberg looked like a foamy ocean wave

The size of the glacier and caves was infinitely more than I even imagined. It was fortunate that three other women were out there so I was able to capture them in some of the images to relay the enormity, otherwise the scale is hard to fathom; frankly it’s hard anyway.

Without the people in this photo, the enormity of these icebergs would be lost

Then I reached the main blue ice cave. I know the photos do not do it justice. I had seen glacier caves on the NatGeo TV channel and in the magazine, but never dreamed I would enter one in person. Now I cannot wait until I am able to venture again – perhaps with Above and Beyond Alaska to Mendenhall or maybe some place different like Iceland? The ice formations are other-worldly and the blue, well, let’s just say that it’s not like any blue I’ve seen before… AWESOME. I could write on and on with many more embellished words but I will let the pictures relay the trek, and hope that even a small portion of what I experienced is felt.

Inside a blue ice cave

I apologize somewhat for writing in such a “flowery” manner but this encounter changed my life and I cannot write enough description about it to make that clear. There was something in this experience of “getting out there” that altered me… I was exhilarated, enthralled and overcome with the unknown wonder of it all. I knew that I had to get back out into the world and travel again; to experience new places and participate in all they have to offer. This quest was actually started many years ago, but somehow I deterred from the path… but now I’m back on it… Thanks Mendenhall!

For more on accessing Mendenhall Glacier and being aware of the safety issues click on the following link: “Allure of Mendenhall Glacier Masks the Dangers of its Face” by Klas Stolpe in the Juneau Empire.

For additional photos visit Mendenhall Glacier Trail.

 

My Life is Based on a True Story. And so it begins…

September 2, 2012 by xplorearth | 2 Comments

Today a friend unknowingly posted a wonderful apropos quote from Razzle Dazzle’s Blog on FaceBook:

Devote yourself to an idea. Go make it happen. Struggle on it. Overcome your fears. Smile. Don’t forget: this is your dream.

Welcome to my travel photo blog, at least that’s what I’m calling it for now, designed to reflect a new phase of my life. This is an exciting journey to cultivate my dream from an idea into a reality, and will be my main venue for sharing travel insights, experiences and photography.

I am sure the blog and the website – xplormor.com – will feel definite growing pains as I labor my way through technical hurdles and into the world of social media.  Please bear with me as I learn and mature through the experience – the outcome should be worth it!  For those of you who have their own websites, blogs, online galleries, you understand the difficulties and the learning curve involved.  Yet, I am committed to make it happen.

I will be adding thoughts, endeavors, destinations and photos on a regular basis unless my travels take me so far out there that I am not able to connect.  As I enjoy “getting out there,” this is a definite possibility.  However, I promise to add updates once back and able to plugin.

I would feel privileged if you bookmark this site, add it to your favorites or subscribe.  I welcome your comments and participation in this new adventure.

Travel. Photograph. Get out There. XplorMor

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